If there’s a town in Central America that I really enjoy returning to it’s San Ignacio in the Cayo district of Belize. It’s a little rough around the edges in a charming sort of way. The climate is refreshing and not too stiflingly hot like the coast. There are ruins nearby and while none of them might compare to Tikal (3 hours away) or Chichenitza, they’re still worth a visit. The town is in close proximity to plenty of jungle walks, it’s bordered by two rivers and there is enough bird life to keep an ornithologist busy for weeks. My favorite characteristic of San Ignacio is the people. It’s the kind of place where everyone says good morning and the children are well behaved.

I’ve been to San Ignacio on three different occasions and have always enjoyed my time there. Unfortunately most travelers use San Ignacio as nothing more than a terminus to catch a bus into Guatemala and the ruins of Tikal and in doing so they’re missing a wonderful destination in Belize.

When you get off the bus in San Ignacio your first stop should be Eva’s Restaurant, the local hub for tourist information, good eats and morning coffee. Throw down your bags, grab a cold Belikin and get your bearings. There are plenty of hotels right on the main road and places like the Venus Hotel, while basic, do come recommended.  If you’re interested in accommodation the Toucan Trail offers a hotel search feature for the entire country as well as other useful information.  There are also places to camp in the surrounding area. A favorite spot of mine was the Midas Tropical Resort located on Branch Mouth Road. You could pitch a tent or rent a cabana and the location is quiet with friendly owners. While a few miles outside of town the Parrot Nest lodge looks like a funky place as well offering both cabanas and tree houses, shuttles into town and free river tubing. I’ve never stayed here myself but it does look like a fun place. Another place that I haven’t stayed at but does come recommended is the Barton Creek Outpost where you can camp for free with your own cot or rent a sleeping bag and mat for as little as $5 per night.

There’s plenty to do in San Ignacio but one of the first things I always do is take a stroll down to Branch Mouth. This is where the Macal and the Mopan rivers meet and is a great place to relax, take a swim or do some bird watching. Years ago there was a ferryman who you paid to get to the other side of the river but they have since built a bridge. Another interesting walk is to Cahal Pech, a small Mayan ruin that’s about a 30 minute walk from town. Entrance is only a couple of dollars and includes a 1 hour tour.

Other excursions could include taking a canoe tour up the river. I’m not sure if my friend Orlando is still in business but ask for him anyway. On the trip we saw plenty of iguanas including a huge one that Orlando tried to catch for his dinner. We also stopped off at a few swimming holes along the way and had time for  a cold drink at the Chaa Creek resort before paddling back into town. Ask your guide if the rope swing is still there. Another tour that has been popular in the area is the Panti Medicinal Trail or Rainforest Medicinal Trail is accessed via a canoe trip on the Macal River. Ask at Eva’s for more information.

Other excursions in and around San Ignacio might include horseback riding tours into the jungle, a trip to the caves and waterfalls in the Mountain Pine Ridge area or a tour of Caracol, one of the largest Mayan ruins to date and a place that is rarely visited by tourists. If you’re in town on Saturday then definitely check out the farmers market that takes place here. Look for the Mennonites as they usually offer the best produce as well as cheeses and other items that you might want to pack for a day hike around town.

The nightlife in San Ignacio is nothing to write home about although there are some places serving up entertainment like The Stork Bar. For the most part my evenings were spent just people watching and enjoying a cold beer at any of the local bars that had a patio outside. Just keep an eye out for the smooth talking touts who might pester you for a drink.

All in all San Ignacio is the kind of place where you could comfortably spend a few days without destroying your budget. If your only recollection of Belize is going to be Belize City or the Cayes then do yourself a favour and give this small refreshing town a shot. You won’t regret it.

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