Years ago, on our second trip to Belize, my ex wife Lisa and I had more time to explore and made the trip to the small coastal village of Gales Point. With a population of about 500 Creole people the town is a sleepy little getaway that can now be accessed by bus from Belize City. If wildlife, culture, music and a little cashew wine are your thing then take a trip to Gales Point.

My understanding is that there are only two buses per week servicing this small community but that may have changed so check ahead. On our first trip to Gales Point there were no roads and we had to hop a boat with Mr. Sweet at the swing bridge in Belize City. On my second trip to Gales Point I just hitchhiked and after an hour of standing in the sweltering heat I caught a ride. Either way, don’t let that deter you from making the effort, it’s a great little side trip with some of the most wonderful people I have ever met.

There are a few places to stay in Gales Point but with a town this small don’t expect anything fancy aside from the expensive Manatee Lodge with rates hovering around the $200 mark. You can camp here at Metho’s Coconut Campground for $5 per night or stay in the guesthouse for $25. My Gentle’s Cool Spot  and Ms. Ionies Rooms offer accommodations for around $15 per night. Also check to see if the Village Cooperative is still offering rooms. While a bit pricier your meals are included and you get to stay with a Creole family.

Gales Point’s main attraction are the manatee that reside in the lagoon that surrounds the peninsula the village is built on. You can probably arrange for a tour at Gentles Cool Spot or you could rent a canoe for the day. Don’t worry about tipping over, the lagoon isn’t very deep. One of the places that the manatee used to congregate around when I was there was the Tarpin Hole. It’s marked by some floating buoys off the south east point of the village. These are very shy animals so if you do head out just sit very calmly in the water until you start to hear them surface. Another interesting experience is to go out to the dock at night and just listen to them as they come up for air. You won’t see them but it’s still fascinating to listen to them.

Gales Point is a wildlife sanctuary and the people of Gales Point are very proud of it. Sure you might overhear an older villager reminiscing about the taste of manatee but those days are long gone. The area is also a nesting ground for the endangered Hawksbill Turtle and tours to their breeding grounds can also be arranged. Other opportunities for exploration could include crocodile watching, cave exploration, jungle walks and fishing.

If you’ve got the rhythm coursing through your veins then Emmeth Young and Boombay Andrewin have started a drumming school where you can either purchase one of their own hand made drums or make your own. If the culture of the Creole people has you interested then you really should look up Emmet when you’re there. I didn’t take the drumming lessons when I was there but I did camp with him and had a chance to talk to some of his students who were really enjoying the course.

As I’ve stated before I really do adore the people of Gales Point. They are friendly, kind and hospitable with a wonderful history and culture that they’re only too eager to share. On my first visit to Gales Point we stayed with Ms. Elain and Mr. Peris, a lovely couple of mixed mestizo/creole background. That was in 1994 and when I returned 10 years later they were the first people I looked up. I caught Ms. Elaine as she was doing some laundry outside her home and asked if she remembered my ex wife and I from all those years ago. She looked as though she was trying to remember when Mr. Peris stepped out of the front door and exclaimed, “BOY!! You got fat!” This prompted a quick retort from Ms. Elaine who cuffed him on the shoulder and said, “No no….’e look good you ole fool.” That night while reading a book at at my campsite Ms. Elaine’s son, Noko, showed up with a loaf of warm coconut bread.

Another interesting character in town is Mr. Gentle of Gentles Cool Spot. He’s like the local proprietor offering the visitor a cold beer, local food, accommodation, tours and even some of his dodgy but tasty cashew wine. I was relaxing on his deck sipping a cold Belekin when he stepped through the front door of his house. I immediately recognized his weathered but kind looking face and asked him how he was. “Fine Mr. Scott, fine. I hear you come back to pay us a visit in Gales Point.” I replied that I could not visit Belize without taking the time to stop in at my favorite village to which he replied, “Well it’s nice that come back to renew your passport wit dee people of Gales Point.”

This is why I travel. Sure I love seeing the sights, visiting museums, searching for wildlife and trekking through ruins but at the end of the day it’s the people that always leave a lasting impression on me. I would be just as content sipping Mr. Gentles cashew wine on the veranda of his house as I would  looking out over the Peten Jungle at the top of Temple 4 in Tikal. Gales Point is a wonderfully sleepy destination that is worth the effort it takes to get there. If you’re interested in wildlife, culture and music or you just want a place to wind down for a few days then Gales Point is the place to be.

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